Optimasi Xanthan Gum dan Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose dalam Masker Gel Peel-Off Antioksidan Ekstrak Kulit Buah Kakao (Theobroma cacao L.)
Optimization of Xanthan Gum and Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose in Antioxidant Peel-Off Gel Mask from Cocoa Pod Husk Extract (Theobroma cacao L.)
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.25026/jsk.v5i4.1297Keywords:
masker gel peel-off, Theobroma cacao L., gelling agentAbstract
Antioxidants can prevent premature skin aging caused by free radicals. Cocoa pod husk extract can be used as an antioxidant in the form of a peel-off gel mask. The peel-off gel mask forms a thin, occlusive film that supports antioxidant absorption in a short time. The optimal concentration of gelling agent is necessary to make a good peel-off gel mask. The aim of this study is to determine the optimal concentrations of xanthan gum and HPMC in the preparation of a cocoa pod husk extract peel-off gel mask. The optimization was performed using the Simplex Lattice Design (SLD) method with two factors, which is the concentration of xanthan gum and HPMC, the optimum formula was tested for antioxidant activity using the DPPH method. The result indicated that the use of xanthan gum and HPMC had an impact on changes in formulation viscosity, pH, adhesion, and peeling time. The optimum formula consisted of 0.945% xanthan gum and 0.555% HPMC which was predicted to have a viscosity of 62.754 dPa.s, a pH of 5.091, an adhesion of 165.922 seconds, and a peeling time of 1765.391 seconds. Its antioxidant activity is classified as moderate with an IC50 value of 143.664 ppm ± 1.348.Keywords: peel-off gel mask; Theobroma cacao L.; gelling agent
Abstrak
Antioksidan dapat mencegah penuaan dini yang disebabkan radikal bebas. Ekstrak kulit buah kakao dapat dimanfaatkan sebagai antioksidan dengan pembawa berupa masker gel peel-off. Masker gel peel-off akan membentuk lapisan film tipis yang bersifat oklusif sehingga membantu penyerapan antioksidan dalam waktu singkat. Konsentrasi gelling agent yang optimum diperlukan untuk membuat masker gel peel-off yang baik. Penelitian ini dilakukan untuk mengetahui konsentrasi optimum gelling agent xanthan gum dan HPMC dalam masker gel peel-off ekstrak kulit buah kakao. Optimasi dilakukan dengan metode Simplex Lattice Design (SLD) menggunakan dua faktor, yaitu konsentrasi xanthan gum dan HPMC, formula optimum diuji aktivitas antioksidannya menggunakan metode DPPH. Hasil analisis SLD menunjukkan penggunaan xanthan gum dan HPMC berpengaruh terhadap perubahan viskositas, pH, daya lekat, dan peeling time sediaan. Formula optimum yang terpilih terdiri dari 0,945% xanthan gum dan 0,555% HPMC. Prediksi nilai respon viskositas sebesar 62,754 dPa.s, pH sebesar 5,091, daya lekat sebesar 165,922 detik, dan peeling time sebesar 1765,391 detik. Hasil uji antioksidan menunjukkan aktivitas yang tergolong sedang dengan nilai IC50 sebesar 143,664 ppm ± 1,348.
Kata Kunci: masker gel peel-off, Theobroma cacao L., gelling agent
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